Create Your Own Capsule Wardrobe

Capsule wardrobes are like the building blocks to a home. It provides a strong foundation to your wardrobe, which forms the basis for the rest of your outfit choices. It’s about being discerning and choosing some well-thought-out pieces, and perhaps investing a little more than you might normally. A capsule wardrobe will serve you for many years to come and you will never get bored with it. In fact it will keep inspiring you, season after season, year after year! It is one of the most sustainable ways of dressing. It requires a more discerning approach to what we buy. I challenge you to find a more confident and reaffirming experience than feeling great in your clothes, and when you’re wearing quality pieces that fit you like a glove, you will feel amazing.

What is a capsule wardrobe?

The premise of a capsule wardrobe is that pieces can be interchanged throughout the year to work with the current season, whether spring, summer autumn or winter. Indeed, a capsule wardrobe is a smarter way of dressing.

Having a strong basis of key pieces in your wardrobe is indeed one of my top tips for embracing a more sustainable way of dressing. And although yes, it may require you to spend a little more than you might ordinarily pay for clothes; the investment is worth it. You will be referring to these loyal friends in your wardrobe regularly and in terms of cost per wear, it’s worth it

It’s wise to invest in your capsule wardrobe

So why do you need to invest a bit more in a capsule wardrobe? As these pieces are going to work hard for you and be your ride or die, they need to be good quality. Obviously, that doesn’t always mean you have to spend more, but it’s advisable if you feel an item is superior in some way and may therefore serve you for longer. I bought a fantastic pair of Eileen Fisher black cropped trousers which for all intents and purposes, I could have bought for a tenth of the price on the high street, but these are no ordinary trousers. Not only do they have this incredible stretch material created exclusively in-house at Eileen Fisher, but even after several years’ wear, the elasticity remains and they feel as springy and fresh as when I first bought them. Also, the black dye hasn’t faded and despite the specialist material, they can be thrown into the washing machine on a standard wash. They are the easiest and most comfortable pair of trousers to wear - no fastenings or pockets, just an elasticated waistband. I have no hesitation wearing to an important meeting or going out for dinner as I do wearing them to run errands. They are worth their weight in gold is what I am trying to say and therefore, worth the higher than usual price I would have paid for a pair that may have looked the same, but wouldn’t come close in quality.

So it’s all well and good advising on what items to buy and where to buy them, but how do you know they are right for you? Will they flatter a curvy bottom half or swamp a more petite frame? There is no quick answer, but I have a simple principle which I tell my clients; clothing works along the same lines as make-up - highlight the areas you want to draw focus to with lighter and brighter colours, and minimise (or ‘sculpt’) areas you’re perhaps not so confident about with clever shading and keeping it simple and understated. Alternatively, book a free discovery call with me and I’ll show you exactly what you need to do :-)

1.) The trouser

When considering trousers, go for a wide leg trouser that glides down the leg, as opposed to being too baggy. Go for black, navy and ensure the length hits just at the right point - I would suggest a couple of inches max, above the ground. Consider a tailor to get this just right because if too short, then like curtains, it will look odd, and trust me, it will make a big difference to the flow of the overall look. If you’re more petite in height, it’s crucial to make sure the trouser falls just at the right point so they don’t swamp your frame, and go for the same colour on the top half to create one column of colour, which can create the illusion of adding inches. This style of trouser looks as great with trainers as it does with heels (better in my opinion) and can be dressed down on the weekend with a denim jacket, and yet looks fantastic in the office with a silk or stain blouse tucked in. Wear with a blazer and white t-shirt for a smart yet cool and contemporary look. For summer, ensure you have a cropped black trouser on standby in your capsule wardrobe. These could be straight or wide leg, whichever is your preference, but wider leg will draw the eye outwards and be less streamlined than a straight leg.

2. A white shirt (and tee)

I believe that a capsule wardrobe should consist of around ten key pieces. Along with a great pair of dark trousers, a timeless white shirt will always look fresh and contemporary and is one of those pieces found in any self respecting capsule wardrobe. Go for natural fabrics, ideally in cotton, silk, satin or linen and depending on the your skin tone - decide on cool bright white through to warm ivory or cream. A white shirt forms a great canvas for colourful scarves and statement pieces of jewellery, and of course looks timeless with understated fine jewellery. If you go for a cotton shirt and prefer a more dramatic look, then wear the collar ‘popped’ and perhaps starch it - very chic! Finish with oversized earrings or wear cufflinks to make a strong statement. Alternatively, go mandarin style and for a collarless white shirt. Experiment with belts over the top and tying a scarf in a cummberbund style, or go for a more relaxed over-sized white shirt and tie the ends in a knot. A white t-shirt will also be a major asset to a capsule wardrobe. First made famous by the late great Marlon Brando in the 1950s film, A Street Car Named Desire, this iconic piece has been a sartorial staple for women and men, ever since. There are plenty of white t-shirts around, but some are better quality than others, so take time finding the right one for your capsule collection.

3. Denim

Next is a great pair of jeans. Go for a darker wash because it will offer versatility if you need to look smart, whilst being a more casual piece in your capsule wardrobe. Avoid a skinny leg or anything overly baggy or exaggerated, like a wide flare and instead, aim for a simple straight leg. If you’re curvier on the hips a slightly more flared ankle or boot cut will be flattering. High waisted jeans always look good because let’s face it, a waist band that cuts in, is not a good look and so high-waists helps to avoid a muffin-top. Keep the length just on or below the ankle - not too long and not too short. And when you wash jeans, turn them inside out to help retain the colour and for the first time, wash on their own, to avoid colour leaking. Avoid ruining your lighter shoes and handbags by keeping the jeans away for a least the first couple of washes, otherwise the dye may bleed into the items and leave permanent marks. I have learned this the hard way..

4. Knitwear

Fine gauge cashmere knitwear looks and feels luxurious and slots into a capsule wardrobe perfectly. Cashmere is notoriously more expensive than other yarns, which is understandable, considering that it is sourced from remote parts of the world and mostly high up in the Himalayas where few cattle roam. Go for a crew neck jumper or perhaps you prefer a more slouchy style with a shawl-neck collar. Alternatively, a long-line wrap cardigan and select your cashmere staple in neutral colours like black, navy, grey or cream or beige. A lot of retailers offer cashmere items at a reasonable price point or cashmere that is mixed with less exclusive yarns will be less pricey than the real thing but still give an oh-so-soft feel. I love The White Company for gorgeous investment pieces, although sourcing your cashmere is is the sort of thing that sales were made for! When storing, ideally keep folded in a drawer and with cedarwood moth repellent balls and to be extra cautious, wrap in an air-tight bag to preserve this delicate fabric. A lot of cashmere is machine washable but do follow the instructions carefully and consider a delicate detergent when washing.

5. Structure

A really great fitting blazer adds a more formal feel to any outfit. Throw on with a pair of baggy jeans for a modern ‘high-low’ look, or wear over dresses and lounge pants to add structure to these pieces. The contrast of a relaxed item compliments the structure of a blazer. Black, navy or brown will do just fine. For a summer lightweight alternative, go for linen and in a lighter colour such a white, cream, beige or light grey. A simple, single breasted shape with a longer line that hits just at the top of the thighs is ultra flattering for broad shoulders and larger chests, which I have learned from own personal experience! Due to the boxy nature of a blazer it can add bulk, so take that into consideration. If you’re more petite on top, go for a stronger shoulder and pockets which in theory is adding ‘padding’, and a double-breasted style has a doubling affect so can help to balance with curvier bottom half. Indeed, playing with proportions can be effective in creating outfits that flatter the body shape.

6. Outerlayers

So how do you keep warm and dry in your capsule wardrobe? Depending on the season, I advice two classic coat styles that will carry you throughout the year. I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that timeless piece, the trench coat. A style that looks good on both men and women and always guaranteed to add sartorial points to your look. I prefer classic beige, but a practical black or navy works just fine. If you are so inclined, then go for a twist with added detail on your trench, but otherwise, keep it simple, which by now, I am sure you know is the hallmark of a capsule wardrobe. For the ultimate styling reference point, check out Audrey Hepburn wearing her trench in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. I say no more. Go for a three-quarter length coat, which will look good with skirts as well as jeans, trousers and a cropped trouser leg. For the ultimate in trench coats look to Burberry or Aquascutum who were the originators of this style but otherwise, most high street retailers will have a great trench at an affordable price. To keep you nice and snug during the colder months then a long-length wool coat is a no brainer. An uncomplicated wrap-style will take you from day to evening and will look so elegant in a classic shade of black, navy, camel or brown. Check out my other blog post on coats.

Now you have your key pieces sorted, we need to look at the all-important items that add a ‘full stop’ to outfits - accessories. Get these pieces right, and you are style personified. These ‘details’ can make or break an outfit.

7. Footwear

A classic black or brown boot will serve you well alongside these key capsule pieces. I love Australian brand, R.M. Williams for ankle boots of supreme quality and that are as hardy as they are stylish, and will look good with jeans or smarter trousers, or even skirts and dresses. Trainers have now infiltrated into our everyday wardrobes and a stylishly savvy pair will take us from leisure to work and look fantastic with trouser suits for that all-important hybrid ‘high-low’ look. When it comes to trainers, I will continue to harp on about an Italian brand I have discovered in recent years, DL Sport and which, as you would expect from our stylish European neighbours, are as utterly sophisticated as they are well-made, and of the highest quality material, whilst also being so damn comfortable due to the orthopaedic insoles (sexy, huh?!).

As someone well into my forties, having spent a lifetime in ill-fitting heels, these are a permanent holiday for my poor feet. You could go for a trainer with a subtle pattern which works perfectly for the office and also the boardroom, or add a bit of a vibrant feel to your look with brightly coloured trainers that will add a pop of colour to your capsule wardrobe. And of course, for non-leather options, you will always score points with your pair of Veja trainers. Although the current zeitgeist for a more informal shoe, ie. a trainer, doesn’t seem to abate, you will of course need a ladylike heel which is a classic style and perfect for your capsule wardrobe. This shoe style will always be relevant and help to transform your outfit into the bad-a$$ that you are, right? I love this Court style shoe from LK Bennett.

For reasonably priced shoes and trainers I love Clarks for reliable quality and in modern styles, and also Geox for that potent mix of style and comfort. plus always worth a visit to TK Maxx and of course, the local charity shop - I found some gorgeous LK Bennett espadrilles in the summer and which are featured on my instagram page.

8. Handbags

And finally, handbags. Nothing pulls an entire outfit together like a well-chosen bag. Depending on your lifestyle go for either cross-body, hobo shoulder style or a well-structured hand-held bag and ideally, have all three in your capsule wardrobe. I don’t need to point out the irony that a bag takes up considerably less real estate across our outfits than say a pair of jeans but then, devil is in the detail. And never more when selecting the right bag to transport all your worldly goods. I really like brand, Mulberry for quietly luxurious handbags with heritage. And nothing beats the Bottega Venetia hobo style handbag which will set you back a small deposit on a house, so instead try LK Bennetts hobo style. I love designer Stella McCartney and everything her cruelty-free ethos includes. If you prefer to opt for vegan leather or a faux leather style there are high street brands that make high quality leather imitation bags - I like Matt & Nat and Charles & Keith

The beauty of a great bag is that you can wear your ‘off-duty’ leggings and t-shirt on your no-make-up Saturday, and it will transport your look into something of wonder! Trust me. Avoid bold logos and too many exposed zips and heavy metal hardware - subtlety is key. As ever, stick to colours that will work in harmony with the rest of your capsule wardrobe - black, grey, brown and tan, and in the summer, do switch up to lighter colours like white, cream, beige and which will instantly bring your outfit into the season and consider details like a straw and rattan.

Final Thoughts

As you can see, there are key items that help to create your capsule wardrobe and although the above is not meant to be a prescriptive list, aiming to have some of these in your wardrobe will serve your outfits well, and make getting dressed far easier. Those ‘I have nothing to wear days’ will be a thing of the past. If you follow the principles of a capsule wardrobe, these well-functioning timeless pieces will help you to feel more in control of your wardrobe, and your life! And where necessary, the investment will be worth it as you get to enjoy these pieces for years to come. It’s always a good idea taking time to shop around before making a purchase because there are so many great brands offering modern classic pieces at reasonable prices. Always check out pre-loved shops and platforms and of course, charity shops because there is always the chance of finding that gem that your capsule wardrobe will thank you for later.

Zoex

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